The dog crate is not a cage or jail.

If you plan to crate your puppy, you will find many tips on how to crate train effectively and gently.

If you weren't planning to crate, I am so happy you peeked in! I hope you stay and watch Sussan Garret's video and be convinced that teaching your puppy to be comfortable in a crate is showing love to your puppy!
The goal with the crate is always to make it fun and safe and not a punishment. You don’t want to catch your dog doing something bad and then yell at them to get in the crate, this is a poor association for the dog, they’ll hate the crate. However, if the crate is always fun, it comes with treats, I get peace and quiet, my own space, then it’s something the dog will enjoy.

There are many situations in life when confinement is required and is the safest option. Anything from visits to the groomer, overnight stays at the vet hospital when getting fixed, your own hospitalization, car trips, or evacuation. The list is really endless for times when having your poodle trained and comfortable with crates is indispensable for their own wellbeing.
Susan Garrett - the world's top trainer educator and agility competitor
"Susan's entire dog training foundation is built on one philosophy: You can achieve great and effective training by simply playing with your dog" - Susan Garrett's DogsThat.
Which crate to choose?

The right-fitting crate will allow the dog to lay on its side with its legs completely stretched out and without having to rest its head on the side of the crate. The dog should also be able to stand on all four without rubbing the top of the head on the top of the crate.

The height of the crate will be the most important as your puppy keeps growing. You can start with a 21" height crate with a divider with any of the minis and moyens. Your small mini will be able to use this crate forever. You may have to upsize for moyens and large minis as your puppy grows. Typically 25" crate height is what you will be looking for for a 15" tall adult poodle.

The weight of your adult dog will not correlate to the weights recommended on the crates, Poodles have long legs and necks and fluffy top knots, and you will need a slightly bigger crate than recommended to accommodate them.

Wire crates

They collapse and can be put away, which is nice for small spaces and travel. They also come with dividers, making the crate smaller when the puppy is younger; this helps with crate training since if the dog has too much space in the crate, they’ll use one side for a bathroom.

Some dogs may feel exposed and need an extra cover. And If mess happens is not contained as well. The tray is easy to take out and wipe and can hold some mess, but you might want a pressure washer if there’s poop on the wires.

These crates are the best value and the double door makes it super convenient for any space. I use these all the time https://www.hollywoodfeed.com/p/41609/hollywood-feed-dog-crate-double-door.



Plastic crates

The solid plastic crates are better for keeping dog messes inside the crate; if there’s an accident, it will catch it. They can be hard to clean on a regular basis, though, since you need to climb or reach in there and wipe them out. The dogs seem to like the dark of them a little better; it feels safer. Yet, they can be awkward and aren’t great as a table.

Unless you have a small mini poodle or purchase an XL size for a larger mini or moyen, the width tends to be too narrow for the dog's comfort.

If you like to save, the plastic crate is an excellent option to purchase second-hand. The solid surface is easy to wash and sanitize before use with your own puppy.

Soft sided crates


I love using soft-sided crates when taking puppies to vet appointments, where we may have to wait a while.
These are great during training classes in our club. They are lightweight, fold down, and easy to carry. The crate provides a clean and cozy space for the dog to hang out during the "lecture," waiting for our turn.

However, the dogs should not be left unattended in these crates until they are confident in a crate and in your absence.

These crates unzip, get flipped over, and the mesh rips very quickly with the pawing and chewing of an anxious dog. Mess is very hard to clean out from soft material too.

Car crates

The solid plastic crates are better for keeping dog messes inside the crate; if there’s an accident, it will catch it. They can be hard to clean on a regular basis, though, since you need to climb or reach in there and wipe them out. The dogs seem to like the dark of them a little better; it feels safer. Yet, they can be awkward and aren’t great as a table.

Unless you have a small mini poodle or purchase an XL size for a larger mini or moyen, the width tends to be too narrow for the dog's comfort.

If you like to save, the plastic crate is an excellent option to purchase second-hand. The solid surface is easy to wash and sanitize before use with your own puppy.

NutriSource Small and Medium Breed Puppy Food (chicken with rice)

This is what I feed my puppies. To find it, you can put your zip code in and find local stores
https://nutrisourcepetfoods.com/where-to-buy/

It is typically found in smaller chains and independent stores. If there isn't one nearby, it can be ordered through Amazon.

Purchase a small bag (5 to 15 lbs) at a time so your puppy will finish it quickly, and keep it in the airlock container to preserve freshness.



I like this particular puppy food because it is super nutritious for growing puppies and easy for them to eat. The individual kibble size is about the size of a lentil. It makes it easy for tiny teeth to chew.
HOW MUCH TO FEED?



The chart above and the back of the dog food bag have suggested measurements to start with and adjust as your puppy grows.

Poodle puppies burn a lot of energy playing and must replenish it quickly. I recommend not limiting the puppy's access to food at all until 12 weeks. I free-feed my puppies. This means leaving the dry food out during the day for your puppy to graze on when hungry.


At 12 weeks, they can be switched over to 3 meals a day and two meals at six months old. If you prefer to keep your puppy on a strict schedule until 12 weeks old they must be fed at least four times a day.

Right after going home, the puppy may experience uncertainty about the new environment and not eat. This is not ideal and sometimes even dangerous for a small puppy. In tiny puppies, prolonged fasting can easily lead to hypoglycemia. In this case, soak the puppy kibble with warm water and let it sit for 20 minutes to cool off. The soaked kibble releases a stronger smell and entices a hungry puppy to try and eat it. Leftovers should be refrigerated or thrown out after 40 minutes.

Poodles are athletic and very good at self-regulating when allowed to do so. Poodle weight varies a lot among different lines. It is best to rely on body scoring than weight to determine if your dog needs more or less.
WHAT ABOUT TREATS?
I know it is super exciting to start spoiling your puppy right away! Puppies digestive system is still developing and puppies are sensitive to changes in their routine. It is important to consider their delicate tummies and overall health.
In the first few weeks keep it very plain and simple.

  • set aside some kibble from the daily ration amount for rewards.
  • cow hooves can be used by themselves for chews instead of bully sticks or rawhide
  • cow hooves also make great chews and can be stuffed with soaked kibble and frozen
  • tremenda stick aka beef blader
Your puppy is tiny, and it's easy to overdo and accidentally replace a meal with treats, so ensuring the treats are as nutritious as they are delicious is essential. For training, I like using "spiked" kibble - adding a piece of cheese or hot dog to a kibble container and keeping it overnight in the fridge. The extra flavor absorbed by the kibble makes it much more enticing without changing the nutrition profile.



Once your puppy has settled in start adding small amounts of natural treats, a little bit at a time. You can use baby food pouches, freeze-dried kibble toppers, Ziwi Peak, and freeze-dried lungs. The least processed, simpler, and shorter the ingredient list, the better. I would avoid bacon strips and "training" treats from the treat aisle in the pet store. Those are full of dies, fillers like starch, gluten, and glycerin and have little nutritional value or flavor and can make your puppy sick.

I highly recommend selecting treats manufactured in the USA and avoid cheaper Chinese imported ones.

Keep in mind, you can totally feed your puppy dinner when training with kibble in a 10-minute training session. For training purposes, the size of the treat pieces should be just big enough to have a quick taste and swallow.
What about raw and grain free?
The page on food choice considerations is coming soon and will be in the second module. Check back in a bit.
SMALL
MINIS
OUR
POODLES
MINIATURE
Made on
Tilda